Welcome to Kyiv

January 29

Today I arrived at Charles de Gaulle Airport at 4:30AM for a 7:35 flight to Kyiv. Contrary to the advice I received, it does not take one hour to get to CDG at 4AM. When I arrived at the airport, the airport was closed. The building was open, but no one was working. So, I waited. At 6, I was able to check in and get an Illy café au lait. Love that Illy coffee.

The flight to Kyiv was very pleasant, yet again courtesy of Air France. I was very tired but way too excited to sleep. I was like a child at Christmas! I read my invaluable Lonely Planet guide book to Ukraine (thanks to my thoughtful brother) and when we emerged from the clouds I looked down to see the Earth covered in white. I’m having trouble putting that feeling into words. So I’ll just make this very succinct: SNOW WAS EVERYWHERE. It covered EVERYTHING. Pics of this are below.

I’ve read about such things, but have never seen snow like that in person. The only possible exception to this is a few ski trips to Colorado, but that doesn’t really count bc the whole reason you go to that place is to make use of the snow. I haven’t ever been to a place where life was functioning as usual and there just happened to be snow everywhere…hard, dirty piles as high as 4-5 feet and cars completely covered by the stuff. Until now, that is.

I’ll stop digressing and back up a second. We landed at Kyiv-Boryspil Airport and taxied behind a yellow car. I noticed that we weren’t going to walk directly into the airport, so I prepared myself for the moment I have been planning for for months.Those of you who have spent time with me in recent months now that I have engaged in many conversations and engaged in hours of research regarding the best materials to keep warm.

I walked out of the plane into the fresh air and waited for that chill to hit me like a brick to the head. I am a cold natured person who has more or less lived in the South most of my life. However, that moment never came. I walked down some steps and onto the tarmac. Still, no moment. Instead, I realized that I was going to be just fine. I came prepared and because of that I was totally able to handle the weather today. I think the high was 23 degrees F. This further proves one of my cheeser beliefs: Prior preparation prevents poor performance. You get the idea. But knowing that I can handle this is a relief (I’m fully aware that all my friends who have lived in cold places are laughing at my expense!).

We went inside, checked in through Customs, and went to baggage claim. One bag arrived, the other did not. Where is my bag? I had heard from several people that the average theft rate at KBP was about 30% of one’s belongings. I was told by the Fulbright Office not to pack anything in the checked luggage that I would be upset to lose, so I didn’t. So I came to peace with the fact that if all of it was gone, I would revel in the simplicity that comes with abandoning one’s worldly goods and in the next few days I would treat myself to a few items I needed in Kyiv. I went to the lost baggage office, where they informed me that my bag had arrived the day before. Hmm. Prime theft opportunity. I followed the directions (those I could make out from the conversation I had with the woman from Swissair that covered 3 languages (Ukrainian, English, and French, and for all I know there may have been a few more languages thrown in there, too). I went to the lost baggage office and was taken in there alone. Me, and three uniformed male officials who spoke very little English and were not messing around. A month from now things like this probably won’t bother me a bit, but I had not been in the country for 20 minutes and plus I had heard horror stories about the beaurocrats and government employees at KBP. So they asked me a bunch of questions, made me open my luggage, asked what was in it, and then started asking more questions. They had asked me for my passport before but had not flipped through it at all. So finally one man asks what I am doing in Ukraine. I seized the opportunity. I had been told this summer to request a Research Naukova Visa. Evidently these command respect, so when he asked the question I took the opportunity to flip it to my Ukrainian Visa page. DONE. Just like that it was all over and I was heading down the hall with my bag. AND, as far as I can tell thus far, everything is in it. Thanks KBP!

The Fulbright Office arranged for their driver (Yuriy)to pick me up and take me to meet their realtor, who had selected an apartment. Evidently apartments/flats are commonly rented out and used just as, if not more frequently, by visitors than hotels. It took a while to get there but on the way we saw the very frozen Dnipro River, lots of Soviet style mid and high rise housing developments, and the beautiful St. Sophia and St. Nicholas (Mykola) churches. There was lots of dirty snow and lots of fur coats and hats. I had been told that Ukrainian women are very particular about dressing well and that I would see 6 inch heels worn in the snow. It didn’t take long for me to spot one young woman in very, very high black heels gingerly walking through the snow. We also saw about 300 men and women in uniform walking in formation behind a very large Ukrainian flag. I asked the driver if they were members of the Ukrainian Army and indeed they were. Natalia from the Fulbright Office called to check on me and to run through some of the details…apartment, train tickets, etc. It sure was nice to feel that people were looking after me. I met with the realtor and another woman and everything went smoothly. Learning how to lock and unlock the door was a bit of a challenge but everything else has been smooth thus far.

After having a bit of a crying meltdown upon looking outside and realizing that I am going to be in this place for over 5 more months, I spent some time getting settled and then suited up in all the cold weather gear to go outside. Part of me just wanted to stay in the apartment and hide but I was hungry; it is dark here, and as a baby of the Cold War, my first reaction when surrounded by Russian-speaking people is that I am not safe. The people here are all bundled and, like many Eastern Europeaners, appear stern...not warm and welcoming at all. It was a bit colder than it had been before in the day. I walked around a bit and found a pizza place (named Pizza Bar) nearby. I drank Georgian sparkling water and had an individual pizza with cherry tomatoes and ricotta cheese. I practiced speaking Ukrainian with the waitress, who spoke good English. Dinner was very reasonable…about $12 US total for 2 people. The pizza was loaded with fresh basil, which looked good but I remembered that we’re not supposed to eat salad or anything that has been washed in water and not cooked. So that went off to the side. I bought some bottled water after dinner (5 hyrvnia for a very large bottle, which is about 60 cents).

Tonight, I read about what I would like to do and see tomorrow and now I’m about to go to sleep. Day One in Ukraine is, unbelievably, already behind me.

January 30 and 31

On Saturday I got going early. I had coffee and croissant at a coffee chain that appears to be the Ukrainian version of Starbucks. I began the walking tour of Kyiv mapped out in my Lonely Planet Ukraine book. I saw the square that was the physical center of the Orange Revolution in 2004. It is closed to cars on the weekends and it quite the place to dress up and walk around. Speaking of dressing up, Ukrainian women are seriously into fashion, and many are strikingly beautiful. Beautiful and very well dressed women are common sights are Kyiv.

So in the first 10 minutes on the square, I saw a couple dressed as Santa and Mrs. Claus, a chipmunk, another costumed person, and a little girl riding a pony…in the middle of the city! This place is fun! Also near the square is an internet and international calling office and a McDonalds. Those golden arches are everywhere. I have a self-imposed rule that I never eat American chains when overseas. This is my longest trip overseas yet, but I’m hoping to keep it in place.

On the walking tour I saw the Ivan Franko Drama Theatre, the House of Chimeras, the Presidential Administration building. I also passed a park near the theatre where you can see just how much snow there is here. Most walkways are decent; one gets used to walking on snow and even ice. My snow boots that I purchased work like a champ. I would be in TROUBLE without them.

Then I walked to the end of a street that dead-ended at more government buildings. The second round of the Presidential elections (this time between Viktor Yanukovych and Prime Minister Yuliya Tymoshenko) is coming up on February 7th. I applied and was asked to serve as an International Overseer for the presidential election so I’m eager to get back on my email and rejoin the conversation about those logistics.

In the photos, you can see that there are tents set up all around town. My guess is that the blue tents are for Yanukovch and the white ones are for Tymoshenko. Their billboards and other advertisements are ubiquitous throughout Kyiv. This is an exciting time to be here. The last time this country had a presidential election, political chaos ensued. At the demand of the people, who felt that the election results were rigged, another round of elections was held. The “winner” of the first election did not prevail in the second. It was the first time that the people protested and demanded fair elections. Not bad for a country that had only been free from the yoke of the Soviet Union for 12 years at the time.

But back to the tour…after I walked past the government buildings I saw the Maryinksy Palace, which is surrounded on three sides by a park overlooking the (frozen) Dnipro River and the left bank. In the middle of the park, there is a small footbridge that looks very colorful from afar. Upon closer inspection, however, I realized that the color and the reflection coming off the bridge came metal locks and ribbons. Interesting (see below).

After the bridge I came upon a horse and two ponies and their very disgruntled handlers. Then I came upon this very nice building. I’m still trying to figure out what it is. My understanding of Cryillic is a work in progress (but so far I can recognize the words bar, restaurant, internet, coffee, Kyiv, Chernivtsi, university, and a few others). Then I had coffee and a pancake with ice cream for lunch. Odd, I know, but we were given strict warnings about what to eat and not eat and don’t want to push it until I get to Chernivtsi and get settled. During lunch, the TV in the café showed Katy Perry and Brittany Spears music videos and advertised the Grammy Awards show. I’ve also heard lots of Beyonce, Michael Jackson, Jay Z, and Miley Cyrus. It is somewhat surreal to be walking down a street in Kyiv and hear the sounds of Miley Cyrus’ voice, singing “It’s a Party in the USA.”

Then I started back on the walking tour and evidently didn’t follow directions very well. I ended up in the shopping district Podil (totally by accident, I promise, although I can’t say the unexpected detour bothered me at all). There I visited a very nice furniture store and some stores where the aforementioned Ukrainian women buy their fabulous clothes. Evidently parts of the rest of the world are having the sales that the US seems to have had in the past year or so, bc Paris and most of the Kyiv stores were advertising 50-70% off sales.

Then I stumbled upon a large semi-indoor market, selling a great variety of items. The selection of fur hats here was extensive (as in, every other stall had at least one hundred of them). Fur is all over the place here…men and women wear fur hats, and women, if they aren’t wearing a full length fur coat, which many of them are, have fur trimmed hoods, collars, etc. Down is fairly common around here as well, thankfully. My mother insisted I bring her full length mink and before I arrived I was worried that it would draw attention but boy was I wrong. These things are everywhere. I also brought a fur hat that Mom and I gave Papa a few years ago. At the market, I bought a present for my mother. After shopping, it was quickly getting dark, I had no idea where I was on the map and was tired. I had yet to take a taxi but after multiple attempts to hail one I successfully negotiated a fare of 40hyrvnias (a little less than $5US) for a ride to the apartment. I find myself tipping well, bc the exchange rate is so favorable.

After taking a rest I woke to realize that the ballet I wanted to go to at the Opera House started in ten minutes. I shot up like the building was on fire. Nothing was going to stand in the way of me and Ukrainian ballet. As a (former, sniff sniff) dancer, I grew up revering Ukrainian and Russian ballet dancers and the Vaganova Ballet method. I used to try various positions and steps using the American/Balanchine method, taught by George Balanchine (odd I know, given that he came to the US from Russia) and then contrasting it with the Vaganova method. When I found out I got the Fulbright to come here, seeing Ukrainian ballet was at the top of my list. I had also heard great things about the quality of the performances from Diane Vecchio and her husband John Stockwell and the very reasonable ticket prices. As one guidebook described, the tickets to cultural events, “priced for the people,” is a vestige of the days of communism. Fine with me! I saw Zorba the Greek from a beautiful box for approximately $2.50US and the dancers were amazing. Everything about the performance was terrific, actually, from the sets to the music and the chorus and soloists who sat on risers on the stage as well. I really want to see the ballet The Master and Margarita (based on Mikhail Bulgakov’s book), which is being performed on February 13th, when I will be in Kyiv again for Fulbright Orientation. I need to read the book as well. My friend (and FBI Agent) Mark Kirby, whose expertise is in the countries of the former Soviet Union, suggested it. I had never heard of it at the time, but evidently it is considered by many to be one of the best books to come out of the 20th century from the Soviet Union.

After leaving the beautiful Opera House we went to an Italian restaurant I spotted earlier in the day(Milla Maglia). Afterwards, I stayed up half the night (big shocker for those who know me) reading my guidebook and doing some preliminary planning for when my BFF Anne Genevieve Gallivan comes to visit, and when my Mom, Aunt Sandy, and cousin Brittany come as well. I’m so happy to have visitors!

Today, I overslept and was very mad at myself. I had a full day of church visiting planned (it is Sunday, after all, and this is a very Christian country). I immediately axed one of them from the list, and eventually had to axe St. Sophia as well for a variety of reasons. Plus, Anne Genevieve lands in Kyiv in 18 days and I know she will be interested in such things as well. We visited St. Andrew’s and the winding street that runs alongside it, Androvsky Uzuz, which is filled with typical Ukrainian souvenirs (nesting dolls-which are actually more typically Russian, Soviet and Nazi paraphenalia from WWII, embroidered shirts, etc. ) I saw some Ukrainian flags, which I took particular interest in bc I am charged with bringing one back for my BFF Courtney Buxton and her family.

On Androvsky Uzuz there are men selling art on the street, the quality of which varies significantly. I came close to buying a small painting, but then thought about how burdensome all of the stuff I already have with me has been, and decided against it. Maybe later.

At 3:45 I darted back to finish packing. The driver, Yuriy, came to pick me up at 5 and help me get to the train station. THANK GOODNESS for Yuriy. Natalia also called Yuriy’s cell to check in, as she did on Friday, which I appreciated. Those Fulbright folks sure do a good job looking after their people, and I am very grateful to them. I seriously doubt I would have been able to navigate my way to the train and load all this bloody luggage in the compartment without Yuriy and the man with the cart. The alphabet/language barrier and 300 lbs of luggage would have been an issue. Below is a photo of us walking to the train on platform 5 (thank goodness that numbers are the same).

So right now I am sitting in the overnight train compartment on the way to Chernivtsi. The train left at 6:27pm and will arrive in Chernivtsi at 9:30 Monday AM. Yes, it is a 15 hour train ride. But so far it has been good. There is very loud music in the hallway, some of which is in English. I’ve noticed that American music is very popular in Kyiv.

I am excited to get to Chernivtsi, meet Mykola (the chair of the American Studies department who has been SO helpful and friendly), and see the town where I will be living for the next 4 months. We just passed Vinnytsia, which looks to be not quite half way between Kyiv and Chernivtsi, in the central part of Ukraine. I don’t see much outside, except for power lines and a lot of snow. I am really looking forward to daylight so I can see some of the countryside before we get to Chernivtsi.










The apartment:














The Opera House is beautiful.





Love these nesting dolls!



This beautiful woman in her mink reminded me of my Mom.