Sunday in Istanbul

We ate breakfast outside today. The weather is nice, and it feels GREAT to be able to sit outside. This place is a warm weather paradise compared to winter Ukraine.

We walked around Sultanhamet, and after a few hours decided to get a gozleme/pancake. I got one with spinach. I have watched these women sit at the round, hot pancake makers for days and have been curious as to what they are making.

Then we walked around and found a small bazaar, where we went in to look at carpets. I bought a small carpet to hang on the wall. The colors are bright and I like it.

We walked past the university, and saw lots of young people hanging out.

Then we came upon a parade, some sort of protest. I couldn’t read the signs.

Afterwards Jeff got his shoes shined on the street. I noticed the pretty design at the top of this little convenience store/market, then realized that this place used to be a mosque built in 1720. I love visiting places that have such a long history; you find such odd treasures.

On the way to the Suleymaniye Cami, we stopped at a local place recommended by our Lonely Planet guidebook to try a traditional Turkish drink, boza, described as an “Istanbullu tonic drink made from fermented grain.” This place, Vefa Bozacisi, has been in business since 1875. Boza was good! We walked some back roads to get to the mosque. I saw a lot of signs advertising the fact that Istanbul is the 2010 European Capital of Culture. As I prepared to go into the mosque, Jeff shopped around for some traditional clothing.

Then we went inside the Suleymaniye Cami, only to discover that much of it was under renovation and closed. Too bad. Camiis are mosques. This is the mosque of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificient (1520-1566) and it overlooks the Golden Horn. It is a huge complex with a variety of social and public services, including a soup kitchen, hostel, and hospital. This was designed by Mimar Sinan, the same man who designed the Cemberlitas hamami. This is the building for which he is best remembered, and he is buried here. This was the fourth imperial mosque built in Istanbul.

Then we walked to see the Theodosian Wall, built by Emperor of the Eastern Roman Empire Theodosius in the 5th century. Constantinople was surrounded by water on three sides (Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn). The Theodosian Wall overland protect the fourth side. It remained impregnable until the Turkish conquest in 1453.

Loved seeing the kids kicking the soccer ball against these ancient walls!
After walking the walls we ventured over to Chora Church.

I have developed a fascination with former Byzantine, Christian churches that were converted into mosques. The resulting architecture is fascinating. Attaturk was great about converting these churches turned mosques into museums so that both Muslims and Christians could enjoy them. The Hagia Sophia is one example, Chora Church is another. The beautiful, possible the most beauitufl I have ever seen, mosaics and frescoes date to 1312. In the mid-twentieth century, the Byzantine Society of American funded the restoration of the mosaics and frescoes, which had been whitewashed for the 400 years this place served as Kariye Camii. My guidebook had a very detailed explanation of all the frescoes, so I loved walking around checking out the walls and ceilings after reading the descriptions in the book. I loved this place.

It was interesting to walk the non-touristy sections of the city. Check out the bridal wear!Turkish delight aka baklava:

We walked back to Sultanhmanet, where I got some freshly squeezed OK from a street vendor and took a pic in front of my hamami.We went to dinner and enjoyed walking around Sultanhamet Square on the last night in Istnabul. Here is the monument from Kaiser Wilhelm.

Then we walked around and got sucked into our 300th carpet store. I had been looking at carpets at the Arasta Bazaar (were we saw a whirling dervish performance!) but just couldn’t find one I really loved. We sat patiently as they showed us rug after rug. Right before we left, I took a walk around the store, and spotted one on the floor leading to their offices. I loved it and asked if it was for sale. “Of course” was the response I received. So I bought it!

Here is my dinner of chicken and veggies. I love how they get them to sizzle in these black iron skillets.After dinner, Jeff decided he just had to try this Turkish bath. I had talked about it ever since Friday night, and the guidebook said the men’s section was much more luxurious than the women’s. Off he went to the men’s section, and off I went, again, to the women’s. Awesome! I LOVE this city.

After the Turkish bath, we bought some Turkish delight on the street and sat on a bench in Sultanhamet Square that overlooked the Blue Mosque, wet hair and all. What a great trip.